Foreign: a cuisine from Brazil and Portugal
Based in Lisbon, cearense chef Juliana Adjafre commands Aromas & Temperos. The intimate atmosphere of the establishment stands out for its fusion of Lusitanian and Brazilian traditions, in sweet and savory dishes that invite sharing the table
Especially for Guia do Sabor
The space is small – holds 18 seats at the table – but Juliana Adjafre did fit in Aromas & Temperos, food cultures of both countries. The cearense chef has been running the Lusitanian establishment for two and a half months, combining recipes with the taste of her native country and typical ingredients of Portugal .
“I often say that are Brazilians aromas with Portuguese spices. Recipes are known to Brazilians, but undergo modifications and changes of ingredients. Our pão de queijo, for example, is made with their Ilha cheese. The outcome is visually the same, but very different in flavor”, says Juliana.
The proposal of the establishment came amid master’s research in Gastronomic Sciences at the University of Lisbon. Gastronomy professor and consultant of bars and restaurants in Fortaleza, Juliana moved to the Portuguese capital, where she met his partner – who was delighted with the idea of mixing the flavors of two continents.
Aromas & Temperos is placed at Arroios area, near to Largo da Estefânia, a central area of Lisbon. There, the chef meets customers every evening (except on Sundays). The friendly space has its letter noted a slate board. There are 10 dishes and four desserts. Names arouse customers’ curiosity and they receive important information from the house staff.
Really important, because not everything is what it seems in the game of flavors that crosses the Atlantic. “One of the dishes that soon I figured in the idea of combining Brazil and Portugal, was codfish pastel. Here, what they call a codfish pastel is our known codfish dumpling. I decided to bring our to the Portuguese”. In My Cod Pastel, Juliana uses the Brazilian dough fair pastel, stuffed with cod in dendê and coconut milk.
Similar but different
In some cases, the Brazilian tourists may even find that they will meet again the flavors from here; but when they taste the dishes, they notice variations in the taste of ingredients which, in theory, know well. For example, dried meat escondidinho with mashed sweet potato, at first glance, is just like ours: dried meat braised in butter with red onion. The difference is in the baked and smashed sweet potato (the chef suggests harmonizing with a glass of wine from the Alentejo region).
“The Portuguese love sweet potatoes. Here they consume it too much, and they have a variety from Aljezur, very typical. When I find it in the market, I also use purple sweet potato, with a color that looks the açaí”, details.
Regularly, the chef changes the restaurant’s letter, adding or changing dishes to use the ingredients of a given time of the year. So it was that on the saints’ feastivities (in June), the restaurant served sardines (a Portuguese national passion) in tapioca – the latter, incidentally, has already entered the letter. On Crocante da Ilha it is served in cubes prepared with Ilha cheese, traditional Rocha pear jelly and clementine peppers juice.
Another recipe that well balances the two traditions is Feiju dumpling. The feijoada is prepared with Portuguese chorizo; dumplings are breaded in corn bread. To follow, rather than the wine from there, chef’s recommendation is the caipirinha from here.
Sagu – typical dessert in southern Brazil – is prepared with the Portuguese wine and a combined of lemons, yellow and green, from the region.
Juliana celebrates the Luso-Brazilian combination. “Portuguese and Brazilians, both love the mix”. To bind to the transcontinental celebration, the chef chose small plates (and prices as well). “We decided to bet on the sharing system, in which each dish serves two people and a meal consists of 4 or 5 varieties. So the customer can taste and enjoy a greater number of dishes and leave satisfied with that ‘wanting more'”, explains.
Aromas & Temperos
2, Travessa Rebelo da Silva, (Arroios), Lisbon. From Monday to Saturday from 7:30pm to 11:30pm. facebook.com/AromasTemperos